Jason Wu's Spring/Summer 2024: A Fusion of History and Innovation
"It's a very Euro moment," noted Jason Wu, the man who famously dressed former First Lady Michelle Obama. Wu, however, aimed to shift the spotlight back onto American fashion with his Spring/Summer 2024 collection, celebrating the core principles of American sportswear.
Jason Wu's SS 2024
The runway show took place at the Sunken Garden within 28 Liberty, formerly known as the Chase Manhattan Bank Building, situated in New York's Financial District. This location, designed by renowned artist Isamu Noguchi between 1961 and 1964, offered an interactive viewing experience, prompting observers to peer down into the garden from street level and through a circular glass wall inside. Wu's choice of venue encouraged engagement, mirroring his desire to delve beneath fashion's superficial surfaces.
Jason Wu's SS 2024
Wu characterized this collection as highly personal, emphasizing that he has evolved significantly from the wunderkind of the 2010s. The rawness of the collection mirrored the venue, with some pieces featuring hand-distressed fabrics and unfinished edges. This theme carried over from the previous season and continued into Spring/Summer. While Wu's aesthetic will never fully embrace punk, the juxtaposition of his pretty pieces with the raw concrete floors evoked a sense of edginess. Light-washed jeans, ethereal tanks, and evening separates like raw-edged, bias-cut slip dresses over wide-cut jeans diversified Wu's range. Styling these dressier pieces with flat platform sandals introduced an easygoing American sensibility.
The TV series "The Last of Us" prompted Wu to explore themes of destruction and rebirth, inspiring delicate fabric deconstructions. Embracing imperfection was a central tenet of this collection. Prints were drawn from '30s scientific illustrations and 19th-century etchings, with Wu reinterpreting one pattern to incorporate Anna May Wong's visage. These prints added a historical weight and tactile quality to the collection, juxtaposed with an AI-generated underwater film co-created with artist Matthieu Grambert, discovered online. Octopus motifs, inspired by the sinuous forms of these creatures, appeared as intricate embroideries, complementing mermaid hems and seaweed-like ruffles.
Wu's fascination with the concept of prettiness was evident throughout the collection, as he explored new layering techniques reminiscent of Dior Men but uniquely his own. The fluidity and movement of his pieces demonstrated his commitment to authenticity and effectiveness in design. The bias lines of Wu's ethereal dresses, reminiscent of the streets in the Financial District, left a lasting impression.
Jason Wu's SS 2024
Wu's choice of location for the show, the Sunken Garden at 28 Liberty, added a layer of artistry to the collection's presentation. The garden's design, requiring viewers to look down into the lush greenery, symbolized the need to delve beneath the surface of fashion. Wu's commitment to moving beyond mere aesthetics was evident in both his choice of location and the collection itself.
The SS24 collection continued a theme introduced in the previous season, characterized by raw and unrefined elements. Hand-distressed fabrics and unfinished edges lent a sense of authenticity and an artisanal touch to the pieces. Wu's determination to embrace imperfection echoed throughout the collection, reflecting a broader shift in the fashion industry toward celebrating uniqueness and individuality.
Inspired by '30s scientific drawings and 19th-century etchings, Wu's prints told a story of heritage and creativity. Redrawing patterns with the inclusion of Anna May Wong's face added a touch of historical gravitas to the collection. These prints, combined with the fluid and movement-oriented designs, created a harmonious blend of the old and the new, the classic and the contemporary.
Wu's fascination with the possibilities of prettiness was evident in the collection's layering techniques, which introduced a fresh perspective while maintaining the brand's identity. The fluidity and movement of the pieces brought them to life, allowing wearers to experience the transformative power of fashion. Jason Wu's SS24 collection served as a compelling reminder of his commitment to evolving as a designer, embracing imperfection, and redefining the boundaries of contemporary American fashion.
Jason Wu's Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcased the designer's journey of personal growth and transformation, both as an individual and as a creative force in the fashion industry. Wu's ability to embrace imperfection, redefine American sportswear, and interweave history and innovation into his designs was evident in every piece. His commitment to the deeper values of fashion, beyond aesthetics, promises a bright future for this iconic American designer.
